Si Paradiso, Perth

5
Perth

Si Paradiso, a wandering bar-restaurant in Perth famed for late nights, DJs, fantastic pizza, and a love for good, natural things to drink prepared by good natural people, has become a different proposition in the last year or two. Those essentials haven't changed, but the addition chef Paul Bentley has given the restaurant a substantial boost (and, more importantly, made Si – and its newly launched twin Casa – a proving ground for future talent).

Paul Bentley's return from Mexico has infused new life into this Highgate institution, transforming the kitchen into a formidable force. It is not to be missed.

Whether in the umbrella-strewn patio or the dining room, which is decked out in terrazzo, wood, and Italian laminate, the place exudes a rapid but never loose vitality, with produce and evolution leading the way. So a smart crudo of kingfish and pineapple cooked in tepache, or a dish boldly mixing grilled head-on prawns with stracciatella, could be here one week and gone the next.

Blistered pizza is a staple, but the concepts go beyond that; a marinara will include lobster oil, and garlic bread will be transformed into a topping with scapes and burrata. Drinks have a lo-fi, Italianate feel to them, with a preference for orange, rosé, and chilled reds, while service, like the soundtrack, caters to a lively, young crowd.

Wed - Thur 5 PM - 11 PM, Fri 4 PM - 1 AM, Sat 12 PM - 1 AM, Sun 12 PM - 10 PM, Mon - Tue closed

1/446 Beaufort St, Highgate WA 6003, Australia

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